May 26, Tuesday
Today Pat & I left around 10:00 am, and drove the 287-mile trip from Phoenix to Portal once again. We stopped in Tucson for lunch at Le Rendezvous, a local French restaurant that I cannot praise highly enough. We both had the seafood crepes - magnifiques! I am happy to be on the trogon trail, and off work for now - yeah. Technically, we bypassed Portal today and went directly to Paradise. We took the San Simon shortcut road, and then turned off to Paradise. Yes, that's the name of this little town, which consists of about 10 houses and a cemetery. We checked into the George Walker House around 4:00 - plenty of time to enjoy the evening bird show at Jackie's feeders.
Our cabin (above) was very clean, spacious, and decorated with antiques. Next door, Jackie's house was having construction done, but her yard (not visible in the photo below) is birding heaven. At dusk, we saw so many Magnificent Hummingbirds there that I thought I was hallucinating. The bright turquoise & violet heads of the hummingbirds seemed to emit luminescence - one feeder was lit up by hummingbirds, and reminded me of a Christmas tree with blinking turquoise & violet lights. This year the hummingbird migration is larger than ever - I have never seen so many hummers at one feeder.
Another guest at Jackie's place was Nancy - she gave us a tour of her trailer, which was quite cozy . She had lights that lit up during the evening outside her trailer - a hummingbird, a lighthouse, and a turtle. I have seen Montezuma Quail at the feeders here in the past, but not this year. Perhaps the presence of a cat has something to do with that? In any case, "Mischief" was very good at catching mice. We enjoyed watching her parade around, showing off the mice she caught.
Around 7:15 pm, we enjoyed watching the "bat drop," during which about 200 bats dropped out the bat box installed there. I missed the big drop, but saw quite a few stragglers afterwards. Later in the evening, I shone my spotlight outside and saw a swarm of bats, feeding in Jackie's yard.
Species we saw from our front porch include Mexican Jay, Black-headed Grosbeak, Acorn Woodpecker, Gila Woodpecker, Hooded Oriole, Bullocks' Oriole, Scott's Oriole, Bridled Titmouse, White-breasted Nuthatch, and White-winged Dove.
May 27, Wednesday
Today was a great birding day in both quantity and quality! After making breakfast, Pat & I headed to the South Fork Trail around 8:30 am. Right before the third river crossing, we joined up with a group of birders who were focused intently at a high point in the trees. We spotted the trogon there, but continued on for a better view. We crossed the river for a fourth time - at this crossing, there is water flowing - and this is where the trogon put on a real show, so we got great looks. Fourth river crossing:
After lingering there for quite a while, we started back down the trail, and the trogon followed us most of the way back to the trail head. Every time we heard it calling, we just had to stop and get another look. By this time, it had started to rain. We thought we could evade the rain by heading to lower country, so we visited Dave Jasper's bird yard, in the desert area. We didn't manage to outrun the rain, but we did get to see Pyrrhuloxias, Cardinals, Gambel Quails, Lesser Goldfinches, Band-tailed Pigeons, Arizona Woodpeckers, and Black-Throated Sparrows. It was great to be able to do side-by-side comparisons of the Pyrrhuloxias and the Cardinals! We met Chris West, who is the caretaker for the place until the new owners arrive. He was very helpful in identifying the birds to us.
Lunch at the Portal Cafe (the only restaurant within 80 miles) today was homemade tamales, which were pretty decent. The interior of the cafe has a coat-rack made of deer hooves. I'm at a loss for words about this, but one picture is worth a thousand of them:
Pat shows us the old Chevrolet parked outside the Portal Cafe:
Around 7:15 pm, we enjoyed watching the "bat drop," during which about 200 bats dropped out the bat box installed there. I missed the big drop, but saw quite a few stragglers afterwards. Later in the evening, I shone my spotlight outside and saw a swarm of bats, feeding in Jackie's yard.
Species we saw from our front porch include Mexican Jay, Black-headed Grosbeak, Acorn Woodpecker, Gila Woodpecker, Hooded Oriole, Bullocks' Oriole, Scott's Oriole, Bridled Titmouse, White-breasted Nuthatch, and White-winged Dove.
May 27, Wednesday
Today was a great birding day in both quantity and quality! After making breakfast, Pat & I headed to the South Fork Trail around 8:30 am. Right before the third river crossing, we joined up with a group of birders who were focused intently at a high point in the trees. We spotted the trogon there, but continued on for a better view. We crossed the river for a fourth time - at this crossing, there is water flowing - and this is where the trogon put on a real show, so we got great looks. Fourth river crossing:
After lingering there for quite a while, we started back down the trail, and the trogon followed us most of the way back to the trail head. Every time we heard it calling, we just had to stop and get another look. By this time, it had started to rain. We thought we could evade the rain by heading to lower country, so we visited Dave Jasper's bird yard, in the desert area. We didn't manage to outrun the rain, but we did get to see Pyrrhuloxias, Cardinals, Gambel Quails, Lesser Goldfinches, Band-tailed Pigeons, Arizona Woodpeckers, and Black-Throated Sparrows. It was great to be able to do side-by-side comparisons of the Pyrrhuloxias and the Cardinals! We met Chris West, who is the caretaker for the place until the new owners arrive. He was very helpful in identifying the birds to us.
Lunch at the Portal Cafe (the only restaurant within 80 miles) today was homemade tamales, which were pretty decent. The interior of the cafe has a coat-rack made of deer hooves. I'm at a loss for words about this, but one picture is worth a thousand of them:
Pat shows us the old Chevrolet parked outside the Portal Cafe:
In the afternoon, we headed to the Research Station where we saw lots of hummingbirds at the feeders, especially the Blue-Throated, Broad-Billed, and Black-Throated. I used the phone outside in the booth here - the only place in the area from which to make a phone call. I had to shelter inside of the booth because a serious rain started up. We later sat at the feeders and observed the hummingbirds. This area has been recently upgraded with a pond, grass, shade, and feeders. (Last year, we spent quite a lot of time near here at Herb Martyr lake, looking for the Tufted Flycatcher. We eventually saw this bird, thanks to a Borderlands tour group that came along and found it for us).
After observing the hummingbirds for a while, we moved on to Cave Creek Ranch. We saw lots of birds, as well as a deer that came up to the front porch to eat orange flowers off a blooming bush.
After observing the hummingbirds for a while, we moved on to Cave Creek Ranch. We saw lots of birds, as well as a deer that came up to the front porch to eat orange flowers off a blooming bush.
In the evening, we entertained our friends, Rose Ann and Richard, who have the best stories of anybody I know! I met Rose Ann and Richard when they were trip leaders on a birding tour of Bhutan in 2004. A highlight of this trip was to touch base with them, and hear about their exciting adventures! Here is a photo of them, from one of our previous visits.
May 28, Thursday
The construction workers showed up at 6:00 am, so they helped us get an early start! It was time to reluctantly leave Paradise, and head off to Patagonia. First we made a stop at the Myrtle Kraft Library to use the Internet, but it was not open yet - it didn't open until 10:30 that day. The post office next door was open and I mailed some postcards.
Of course, we had to make our usual stop at The Chiricahua Gallery in Rodeo, and happily, there was a show of Narca Moore-Craig's work -- and Narca was working there! I bought an original watercolor of Red Warblers, which are found in Michoacan, Mexico. I think I will have to put them on my list of must-see birds now!
On the road to Nogales, I almost hit a large flock of Black Vultures, or should I say they almost hit me? At such close range, they seemed ginormous!
We stopped in Bisbee for lunch, and then took Hwy-80 toward Quarry Canyon to the Hwy-90 turnoff. Taking this route, we were able to bypass a lot of the traffic in Sierra Vista. Passing through the lovely (not!) Huachuca City, we turned off near Elgin in order to meander through the vineyards. We stopped at Sonoita Vineyards, which is in a beautiful area that kind of reminds me of the opening scenes of "Dallas" - a sea of grasslands. We then stopped at Keeling Schaefer vineyards which is located in a towering chateau. We finally ended up in Sonoita at the Dos Cabezas Winery, where I sampled some of the best wine I've ever had - seriously! I was shocked it was so good -- I recommend the Red, El Norte, and Graciano. All along the wine route, there were Western Meadowlarks perched on the fence.
Once arriving in Patagonia, there was no time to waste, as no trip there is complete without visiting the great shops - few in number, but high in quality. Our favorite shops are Creative Spirit Artists, Global Arts Gallery, and the Mesquite Gallery. The Mesquite Gallery is run by Regina, who also runs the place we stay, Cross Creek Cottages. This owl totem pole is along the main street in town.
We stopped in Bisbee for lunch, and then took Hwy-80 toward Quarry Canyon to the Hwy-90 turnoff. Taking this route, we were able to bypass a lot of the traffic in Sierra Vista. Passing through the lovely (not!) Huachuca City, we turned off near Elgin in order to meander through the vineyards. We stopped at Sonoita Vineyards, which is in a beautiful area that kind of reminds me of the opening scenes of "Dallas" - a sea of grasslands. We then stopped at Keeling Schaefer vineyards which is located in a towering chateau. We finally ended up in Sonoita at the Dos Cabezas Winery, where I sampled some of the best wine I've ever had - seriously! I was shocked it was so good -- I recommend the Red, El Norte, and Graciano. All along the wine route, there were Western Meadowlarks perched on the fence.
Once arriving in Patagonia, there was no time to waste, as no trip there is complete without visiting the great shops - few in number, but high in quality. Our favorite shops are Creative Spirit Artists, Global Arts Gallery, and the Mesquite Gallery. The Mesquite Gallery is run by Regina, who also runs the place we stay, Cross Creek Cottages. This owl totem pole is along the main street in town.
After some productive shopping, we checked into the Cross Creek Cottages (the Studio room is pictured below) and walked around the area. The cottages are located on a farm, which has burros, llamas, and dogs. On our walk, we saw a Roadrunner, Summer Tanagers, Vermillion Flycatchers, and the largest, scariest Common Ravens I have ever seen. The ravens seemed to enjoy strutting around the farm. They were about the same size as an adult javelina - seriously huge birds! It started to rain again today in the afternoon.
I believe this is Obe pictured below. He greeted me every morning when I stepped out the front door of the Studio.
We had dinner tonight at our all time favorite restaurant, Velvet Elvis Pizza Company. Pat ordered a slice of custom pizza that included pesto, cheese, artichoke hearts, and carmelized onions that was probably the best pizza I have ever tasted. I have to remember to order that next time!
This photo shows Pat & I inside the Velvet Elvis, during an earlier visit. The interior has changed since this photo was taken, but I like it because it shows the famous black-velvet Elvis painting on the wall behind us.
Since we had been driving and wine-tasting all day, we were pretty tired. Back at Cross Creek Cottages, I enjoyed watching the bats come and take drinks out of the pool. One flew so close to me that I could see its nostrils even in the dusky light!
May 29, Friday
We had breakfast this morning at the Gathering Grounds, a very nice coffee shop, in Patagonia. It's an unexpected pleasure to find gourmet coffee in this remote location. Our first stop today was the rest stop, before it got too hot. Unfortunately, we didn't see much; although I thought I caught a glimpse of the Varied Bunting. We saw lots of Phainopeplas and a Canyon Wren. We also crossed the highway over near the Circle Z Ranch to look for the random Rose-throated Becard, but no luck. I think Pat is beginning to doubt my claims that I have seen it there because it's never been there when I've visited that area with her!
The photo below is probably the only one I will ever be able take in this area - the hot, open trail in the Patagonia Sonoita Creek Preserve. I have never been able to hike this trail before, due to the heat. But today it was cool enough to do so this morning. It was quite pleasant for most of the hike, and we even saw a Thick-billed Kingbird.
We then had lunch at the Velvet Elvis and discovered the awesome "quinoa primavera." It was a ball of cooked quinoa with shallots, shredded carrots, dried cranberries, dried pomegranates, fresh cilantro, pine nuts, capers, sundried tomatoes, and feta. The quinoa is served on a bed of spinach and tomatoes and topped with raspberry vinaigrette. I have the recipe because Cecilia came out of the kitchen and gave it to us! Later in the day, we visited the Mesquite Gallery, Regina's shop. She has a sign on her door giving you her cell phone number, so that you can call her and she will come and open the shop. Here Pat is waiting, after we called Regina.
After lunch, we decided to check out a B & B that I had made reservations for, but had been cancelled on me. On the Web site for this B & B, it looked quite gorgeous, but when we arrived there, it sure looked like a trailer to us! We discovered that Patagonia has some kind of "rejuvenation center, " and that folks come from all over the world to undertake fasting and "cleansing" regimens here. It's not that I am interested in this center, but my past 3 reservations at 2 different locations in Patagonia have been either cancelled or altered, due to last minute requests for lodging from these folks!
Around 4:00 pm, we visited the Paton's house where we really hit the birding jackpot. We saw a Violet-Crowned Hummingbird, Indigo Bunting, Yellow-breasted Chat, Lark Sparrow, Song Sparrow; as well as several Summer Tanagers and (finally) Blue Grosbeaks! We had been hoping to see Blue Grobeaks during the entire trip, and they really put on a spectacular show today -- we saw at least 5 of them in the Paton's yard.
We had breakfast this morning at the Gathering Grounds, a very nice coffee shop, in Patagonia. It's an unexpected pleasure to find gourmet coffee in this remote location. Our first stop today was the rest stop, before it got too hot. Unfortunately, we didn't see much; although I thought I caught a glimpse of the Varied Bunting. We saw lots of Phainopeplas and a Canyon Wren. We also crossed the highway over near the Circle Z Ranch to look for the random Rose-throated Becard, but no luck. I think Pat is beginning to doubt my claims that I have seen it there because it's never been there when I've visited that area with her!
The photo below is probably the only one I will ever be able take in this area - the hot, open trail in the Patagonia Sonoita Creek Preserve. I have never been able to hike this trail before, due to the heat. But today it was cool enough to do so this morning. It was quite pleasant for most of the hike, and we even saw a Thick-billed Kingbird.
We then had lunch at the Velvet Elvis and discovered the awesome "quinoa primavera." It was a ball of cooked quinoa with shallots, shredded carrots, dried cranberries, dried pomegranates, fresh cilantro, pine nuts, capers, sundried tomatoes, and feta. The quinoa is served on a bed of spinach and tomatoes and topped with raspberry vinaigrette. I have the recipe because Cecilia came out of the kitchen and gave it to us! Later in the day, we visited the Mesquite Gallery, Regina's shop. She has a sign on her door giving you her cell phone number, so that you can call her and she will come and open the shop. Here Pat is waiting, after we called Regina.
After lunch, we decided to check out a B & B that I had made reservations for, but had been cancelled on me. On the Web site for this B & B, it looked quite gorgeous, but when we arrived there, it sure looked like a trailer to us! We discovered that Patagonia has some kind of "rejuvenation center, " and that folks come from all over the world to undertake fasting and "cleansing" regimens here. It's not that I am interested in this center, but my past 3 reservations at 2 different locations in Patagonia have been either cancelled or altered, due to last minute requests for lodging from these folks!
Around 4:00 pm, we visited the Paton's house where we really hit the birding jackpot. We saw a Violet-Crowned Hummingbird, Indigo Bunting, Yellow-breasted Chat, Lark Sparrow, Song Sparrow; as well as several Summer Tanagers and (finally) Blue Grosbeaks! We had been hoping to see Blue Grobeaks during the entire trip, and they really put on a spectacular show today -- we saw at least 5 of them in the Paton's yard.
This is the viewing area in the back of the Paton's bird yard - they kindly provide a tent for shade! We saw so many Summer Tanagers and Vermillion Flycatchers in Patagonia that we resorted to using shorthand for them - STs and VFs!
Of course, we went to the Velvet Elvis one last time for dinner. We had ordered 24-hours ahead to get the quinoa pizza, which I have wanted to try for years, but have never managed to plan ahead for. It was interesting - sort of like a pot pie filled with vegetables in a corn meal type crust. Pretty tasty, and spicier than I thought it would be. Still, my favorite food at the Velvet Elvis this time was the quinoa primavera. In the evening, we went back to Cross Creek Cottages and watched the bats fly in to drink out of the swimming pool.
Sadly, this is the last day of our trip, but there is still time for one more shopping opportunity by stopping in Tubac. Today was Tubac Gala Costume Day - yes, Halloween during summer in the desert!
I did some damage to my pocketbook in Tubac, as usual, but the shopping was great. I bought a quail bowl and a hummingbird platter by Chris Bubany, an artist I really like. One last stop at the Tubac Golf Resort for a truly delicious lunch:
Does this look like desert...? Not really, but it's quite a nice view from the patio at the Tubac Golf Resort.
Well, we made it home in good time, and our trip is over for now, but the good news is that we are planning a return visit in July to participate in the hummingbird banding at the George Walker House - yeah!
How excellent! I do much traveling myself in Arizona and have written about my many adventures in a book of mine. From encountering bears in solo backpacking trips in Sedona to nearly dying climbing Mt. Lemmon, I've had some exciting experiences.
ReplyDeleteI'm thrilled you're writing this and look forward to what you have to share. Perhaps I will share a few myself.